[FASHION WEEK] LONDON FALL 2015 – OLIVER SPENCER

Awaken

« Ce défilé ne doit pas être juste un spectacle, il doit être un véritable show ». Oliver Spencer a tenu sa promesse en réveillant son public après avoir invité le collectif The Turbans à jouer en direct pour rythmer l’un des défilés les plus attendus de cette fashion week.  À cela s’est ajoutée une approche plus ludique et colorée d’une collection marquée par des looks moderne et sophistiqués, révélant certainement le désir d’une approche plus sérieuse de la part du créateur. Une particularité qu’il justifie comme un « mood » actuel, désireux de combler le fossé entre luxe et mode contemporaine. Un parti pris suggérant une collection portable des plus accessible, entre tailoring casual chic et street wear comparable à l’esprit de l’incontournable Alexandre Matiussi (AMI).

Un ovni donc, parmi les collections conceptuelles de cette semaine à Londres, mais qui ne cesse de surprendre avec des combinaisons, matières et nuances totalement inédites. On note également l’apparition d’alpaga et de cachemire associés à différentes pièces « working wear », illustrant un certain éclectisme, comme si Acne et ses mailles oversize rencontrait Dries Van Noten et ses coats tapissés d’imprimés baroques.

Une collection à la croisée des genres, symbole d’une mode contemporaine se voulant plus cosmopolite et alternative que jamais. Aspect que l’on retrouve également à travers une palette chromatique en opposition à une domination du gris largement observée au cours de cette semaine londonienne. Le défi était osé, mais je dois l’admettre, cette collection est une belle réussite.




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