[FASHION WEEK] LONDON FALL 2015 : E. TAUTZ

Oversize me

« C’est certainement la collection la plus personnelle que j’ai pu créer après avoir pris la relève de TAUTZ. Une déclinaison de tout ce que j’aime porter, on se rapproche de mon idéal. Tout est très British : tailoring, gris, les textures également. » Tels sont les mots du créateur Patrick Grant, directeur artistique de la maison E. TAUTZ, alors peu convaincu du succès d’un défilé pourtant très prometteur.

Une vision alternative d’un tailoring inspiré d’un British ou Scottish flair des 60’s évoquant une certaine « working class ». Une surprise ? Certainement la collaboration avec Christian Louboutin et son adaptation d’une paire de sabots de 1890. Retour avec les northmen de Grant arborant des pièces généreusement proportionnées, coupées dans les matières avec lesquelles les Manufactures Anglaises ont habillé le monde. Une nuance de gris et ourlets aux inspirations Fair Isle soulignent des silhouettes fortes. Les coupes et formes amples offrent quant à elles une liberté totale de mouvement au porteur. Mais une question se pose… Qui adoptera l’esprit Grant à l’heure où mode masculine se veut essentiellement contemporaine?




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